Ed,
I couldn't find any options within Outlook to bring that back...What I do know is that in CRM 4 there was no real Outlook Client, in other words, when you navigated CRM within Outlook you were generating a website within Outlook and that is why you saw the exact same things (buttons, features, etc.) on both clients.
The new Outlook client is an actual application that renders the data on it's own; although you lose some functionality (like the one you describe above), you gain so much, for example you can navigate CRM records and right click on them to use Outlook flags, categories, you can even right click -> Create activities, notes, mail merge, etc.
I know I'm not giving you the answer you expected but I hope this heps understand why you don't see it.
Thanks.